NEIL'S RECIPES: PEASEMEAL AND HAM SOUP

Golspie Mill in Sutherland produces incredible stone-ground peasemeal flour made from ground yellow peas. It's an absolute revelation, and simple to use. This traditional Scottish ingredient was popular in days gone by because it was cheap, filling and very tasty. Just by adding a hot stock, some butter and seasoning you’ll make a substantial soup, to enjoy on its own or with added ingredients like ham. By choosing peasemeal from Golspie Mill, you’ll ensure this tradition will be carried on. So, throw away those instant soup packets, this is a thousand times better!

Image: Paul Johnston, Copper Mango

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 

4 tablespoons peasemeal

500ml hot stock or water (ham stock is good)

A knob of butter

A handful of leftover gammon or ham (or cook a ham hock and flake the meat off - after braising for 3 hours in just water, retain the stock for the soup)

Salt and pepper

A large pinch of curly parsley, roughly chopped

METHOD

Boil the stock or water and season with salt and pepper. Add the butter.

Next, add the peasemeal flour to the hot liquid and whisk vigorously for a few minutes. Check the seasoning and add more butter if required.

Let it bubble for a minute then pour into warm bowls. If it seems too thick, just add a little more liquid.

Crumble on the ham, gammon or hock and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve steaming hot.

NEIL'S RECIPES: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH YOGHURT AND CUCUMBER

This recipe is inspired by a recent family holiday to the wonderful sun-baked island of Crete. I'm using best end of lamb here but you can use gigot chops. I'm going to suggest you cook it a little more than medium. I usually like my chops rare but to be true to Crete, I think a more well-done chop works better with the tzatziki. It's good idea is to marinade the lamb in a little olive oil with thyme and fennel seeds the night before cooking.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

Allow for 3 to 4 chops person - ask your butcher or stall-holder to French trim them

A few sprigs of thyme and marjoram

400g 10% full-fat natural Greek yoghurt - try Total, it’s very good, but a organic one is would be even better

1 medium-sized cucumber

1 small clove garlic, crushed

Good salt and pepper

A drizzle of olive oil – from Crete if you can

Half a lemon

METHOD

Place a griddle on the hob to heat whilst you marinate the chops in olive oil, thyme and marjoram (reserve some of the herbs for garnish). Aim to get the griddle to a moderate heat.

Grate the cucumber into a bowl. Squeeze the water out of the cucumber and mix in the yoghurt and crushed garlic. Season with a little salt and pepper.

Remove the excess oil and herbs from the chops and place onto the griddle and cook for around 5 to 7 minutes on each side in total - check them as you go and turn frequently. Don't cook to well done stage, but don't cook too rare either.

At the end of cooking, season the chops and squeeze over the juice of half a lemon. Serve with a huge dollop of the yoghurt mix and garnish with some marjoram and thyme.

NEIL'S RECIPES: ISLE OF WIGHT TOMATO AND SOURDOUGH PANZANELLA

This is one of the simplest and most delicious salads you can make. A wonderful combo of stale bread, salty, zingy capers and sweet, fat Isle of Wight tomatoes. I love it and serve it in many ways at the restaurant: with grilled fish, or a simple goats’ cheese, but I also love it on its own. The addition of Summer Harvest bramble vinegar gives it a wonderful rounded flavour and makes it something special. Originating in Italy it’s a brilliant way to use up leftover bread. We use day-old sourdough fried in butter, oil and salt to bring it back to life. This salad is great at a barbeque, and can even be made the day before.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1/3  loaf of sourdough, crusts removed

A big handful of Isle of Wight tomatoes, cherry toms are good

1/2 cucumber, seeds removed

1 Ramiro pepper, the long red ones

1 large red onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 tbsp capers

A small handful of basil and mint leaves

50ml Summer Harvest bramble vinegar

75ml Summer Harvest cold-pressed rapeseed oil

A few radishes

A knob of butter

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat 25ml of oil in a frying pan and add the butter. Meanwhile, cut the bread into 1cm cubes, and then fry them in the pan tossing and seasoning all the time until they just start to turn golden. Set to one side on kitchen paper.

In a large bowl, mix the finely chopped red onion with the vinegar then remaining oil; it takes the harshness away by adding it first.

Dice the pepper, cucumber and cut the cherry toms in half, then add to the bowl with the capers. Slice a few radishes and add those to the bowl as well.

Next, add in the croutons then rip the basil and mint leaves gently (being careful not to bruise them) and add to the bowl too. Season and mix gently.

Use your taste buds to figure out if it needs more of this or that. Serve with grilled meats, fish or cheese. Delicious! 

NEIL'S RECIPES: ARRAN WHISKY AND OAT PARFAIT

Last month I set off from the Ayrshire coast bound for Arran. After a wonderful (if slightly choppy) hour on the ferry, the island appears standing majestic and strong, looking like a location from Lord of the Rings with its snow-capped peaks welcoming us. What a spectacular sight it is!

Stepping onto the jetty at Brodick, we’re met by Kim Ryan who will be our guide for the day, along with Gordon Kinniburgh from Arran Cheese. After a quick bag drop at the Douglas Hotel, a splendid Edwardian hotel with grand rooms and a great restaurant, we’re ready for the tour.

I'm here with a few others as a guest of Taste of Arran, to learn about the fabulous produce on this beautiful island. After a short drive through the pretty countryside, our first stop is to see how the famous Arran Mist and Arran Blue are made. These cheeses are only made in small batches and only ever released when they’re in perfect eating condition. I like this approach, and it's inspiring to see true artisans at work. Callum the cheese-maker is very knowledgeable and answers all our questions.

Next stop is The Arran Butcher Shop, a family-run business that’s been operating for decades and is still going strong. They make their own black puddings and haggis, as well as selling many cuts of meat including ‘coos tail’ (or oxtail), which I love.

Time is precious, so next we head off to see the production of oatcakes at Wooleys of Arran, a traditional family bakery. It’s a relatively small operation and it’s great to see the staff working together to create a very distinct-tasting oatcake. 

Finally, we just have time to make a brief tour of the distillery (a bottle was bought!) where we meet Taste of Arran’s founder Alastair Dobson, who does a wonderful job making ice-cream at Arran Dairies as well as spreading the word about this unique Island. I must thank our guide Kim who was brilliant. Let’s show our support - when you see the name Arran - buy it!

How to describe this pudding? Iced, smooth, oaty, rich, with bright egg yolks and that distinct whisky. I’ve used a 10-year-old Arran Malt with notes of citrus and honey followed by vanilla and butterscotch on the palate. It makes a wonderful parfait. I’ve only recently started to appreciate whisky properly and am better at distinguishing all those complex flavours. I know some people don't really get it, but go on, give it a try!

Image: Paul Johnston, Copper Mango

Serves 4 

INGREDIENTS

4 organic egg yolks

125g caster sugar

100mls water

500mls double cream

A good splosh of 10-year-old Arran whiskyA handful of pinhead oats, lightly toasted

A handful of porridge oats, fried in butter and sugar until golden

A few Scottish strawberries

Sweet cicely for a garnish

 METHOD

Add the water and the sugar to a pan and gently bring to the boil. It must reach soft-ball texture, so it looks like a clear syrup. Whisk the egg yolks and trickle in the sugar solution a little at a time - you can use a Kenwood for this - until the mix is full of volume. Allow this mix to cool for about 10 minutes.

In a clean bowl, semi-whip the cream until it reaches ribbon stage. Then gently fold it into the egg yolk and sugar mix, using a cutting/folding action.

Add the whisky to taste, then the toasted pinhead oats and combine. Pour into a terrine mould double-lined with cling film and freeze overnight.

To serve remove from the freezer, tip the parfait out of the mould and remove cling film. Then cut into slices and place on cool plates and serve with a few berries, some sweet cicely and some of those buttery sugary oats. Now eat!

NEIL'S RECIPES: WILD SCOTTISH RABBIT, BUTTER BEANS AND PRESERVED LEMONS

Rabbit is a delicious meat, hugely versatile, sustainable and local. Try wild Scottish rabbit and use the back legs and shoulders for braising, or cooking slowly in duck fat like a confit. The loins can be quickly sautéed and kept quite rare. Served with a few butter beans and a kick of preserved lemon and thyme, it’s lovely and simple, hot or cold. Don't be afraid to have a go at butchering your own rabbit, it’s good fun and you’ll be so chuffed if you get it right. I usually leave the hind legs on the bone during cooking as it seems to stay moist and juicy that way. And remember to add lots of parsley! 

Image: Paul Johnston, Copper Mango

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 large organic unwaxed lemon

1 large cup of course salt

1 whole wild Scottish rabbit

250g duck fat

A few sprigs of thyme

A clove of garlic

200g butter beans, soaked overnight and cooked in water gently for 1.5 hours until just tender

A small handful of curly parsley, chopped

100ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

A knob of butter

1 shallot, finely chopped

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

To make preserved lemons simply make a cross cut 2/3 of the way down the lemon and fill with salt, put the remaining salt into a jar and submerge the lemon in this for a month turning every 2 to 3 days. After a month, remove from the salt and rinse. Scrape out the insides and discard - it’s the pith and the peel you want. Chop finely.

Heat the duck fat and with the thyme and garlic, then add the seasoned front and back legs of the rabbit. Cook for 2 to 3 hours, submerged in the fat, until tender. Don't overcook.

Add the chopped shallot to the rapeseed oil and gently cook on the hob on a low heat until the shallot is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the preserved lemon, and the butter beans.

Remove the cooked legs of rabbit from the duck fat and flake the meat into the bean mix and stir.

Heat the butter in a pan and fry the loins for 3 to 4 minutes being careful not to overcook. Slice and add to the bean mix.

Stir in the parsley and check the seasoning. Remember, the lemon is a little salty but a wonderful addition to this dish.

Serve in a bowl - not too hot - a bit like a warm salad.

NEIL'S RECIPES: SMOKED MACKEREL PÂTÉ, PICKLES

This recipe is almost too easy, but what is wrong with that! You might prefer to buy ready-made (at a hugely inflated price) but this doesn't take long and tastes so good you will make it time and time again. And it’s cheap! It’s good for packed lunches, and will help with the new year detox as it’s packed full of Omega oils. Oily fish used to play a huge part in our diet, but now sadly we need to fortify our processed foods to replenish these good things in our diets. Try it with oatcakes and a dollop of horseradish, or some pickles. Or just with a simple salad, a squeeze of lemon juice, a twist of pepper and pow! It's that good. Try using peppered mackerel for a wee hit.

Image: Paul Johnston, Copper Mango

Makes enough for several servings

INGREDIENTS

3 fillets of smoked mackerel

2 tablespoons of crème fraîche

Juice of half a lemon

A twist of pepper

250ml cider vinegar

250ml water

100g sugar

A few spices (star anise, peppercorns)

A handful of vegetables like carrots, cucumber and onion, peeled and cut into nice shapes

A teaspoon of good salt

A few oatcakes

METHOD 

Firstly make a pickle by boiling the spices, vinegar, water, salt and sugar together for a minute.  Then add the vegetables to this liquor. Remove from the heat and put in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. This can be stored for months if you don’t use all the pickles at once.

To make the mackerel pâté, blitz the mackerel with the crème fraîche in a food processor until smooth. Then add the pepper and lemon to taste. It should be nice and smooth.

Keep the pâté in a tub in your fridge until required. It’s perfect with oatcakes and those pickles!

NEIL'S RECIPES: PERTHSHIRE MUTTON LEG STEAKS WITH KALE, LANARK BLUE CHEESE AND COBNUT BAKE

“These mutton leg steaks are simply pan-fried in a little butter, with good salt and pepper and served with kale, Lanark blue cheese and cobnuts. Cobnuts are a wonderful relative of the hazelnut that adds something special to this dish. Serve in a big dish on the centre of your table and your family and friends will be begging you for more! “

Serves 4

 INGREDIENTS

4x150g mutton leg steaks, I get mine from Grierson Organic

2 large handfuls of curly kale, stalks removed

250g Lanark blue cheese

1 handful of cobnuts, shelled and roughly chopped

1 parsnip and 1 carrot, washed, peeled and boiled for 4 to 5 minutes

50ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

100g unsalted butter

Good salt and pepper

1 sprig of rosemary

METHOD 

Firstly blanch the kale in salted boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes and refresh in cold water. Cut the carrots and parsnips into a rough 2 cm-dice.

Place the kale, carrot and parsnips into an oven-proof dish and crumble on the cheese. Season with salt and pepper and bake for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a frying pan on the hob and add half the oil. Season the leg steaks and fry until golden brown on both sides. Add the rosemary and butter whilst cooking and baste the steaks - this should take about 5 to 7 minutes. Try to keep them medium-rare. Allow the steaks to rest for a few minutes.

Just as the kale bake is coming out of the oven, scatter on the cobnuts and a drizzle of cold-pressed rapeseed oil and a little extra butter. Grill for a couple of minutes under a hot grill.

Once the mutton has rested, cut into strips and place onto a plate, and serve with a spoon of the kale bake and a final drizzle of rapeseed oil.

Enjoy!

NEIL'S RECIPES: FILLET OF HAKE WITH SQUID, POTATOES, CAPERS AND PARSLEY

We in Scotland are all too familiar with haddock, cod and whiting, but did you know Spain's biggest selling fish is hake? Ironic in a way when the majority of these fish come from colder waters like ours. With a delicate flavour and a flaky texture, hake cooks quickly and is incredible with a few blistered tomatoes, slices of spicy sausage and of course herbs. But here I’m serving it with Heritage potatoes, smashed with butter and parsley and served alongside squid caught on our east coast, keeping this dish firmly on British soil.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

x4 150g hake fillets, scaled and bones removed (fishmongers will do this for you)

A handful of fresh Scottish squid tentacles and bodies

4 handfuls of heritage potatoes (I like Sharpe’s Express just now), par-boiled

A few spring onions, finely chopped

A tbspn of capers

A handful of curly parsley, roughly chopped

25ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

100g butter

A few radishes, quartered

A few wood sorrel leaves

A squeeze of lemon juice

Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Get a non-stick frying pan nice and hot on the hob then add a squirt of oil.

Season the fish and add it to pan to fry. Add the squid at this stage too and season again. Crisp the fish skin-side down, this will take a few minutes.

Crush the potatoes in a pot with the back of a fork. Add the spring onions and season with salt and pepper. Add 50g of butter and gently heat, continuing to crush as you warm. When the butter has mostly melted, add half the parsley and continue to heat.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter in a small pan. Add the capers, the remaining parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice (optional).

To assemble, place the potatoes in the centre of four warmed plates. Place the fish on top and garnish with the squid, radishes and a few sorrel leaves. Finally, drizzle the caper and parsley sauce over the top and eat with crusty bread. Enjoy!

Image: Paul Johnston, Copper Mango

NEIL'S RECIPES: LOIN OF VENISON WITH GREENS AND BARLEY

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

450g piece of loin of venison, red deer or roe deer

200g of pearl barley, washed in a sieve

1 Savoy cabbage, or equivalent of spring greens

3 nobs of butter

A few hard herbs, like thyme

Good salt and pepper

A trickle of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

METHOD

Drain the barley and place in a pot. Cover with water, season with salt and bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 minutes, or until just soft. Drain and add a nob of butter on top. Keep in a warm place.

Meanwhile, heat a frying pan and season the venison with salt and pepper. Fry in a trickle of rapeseed oil with a wee nob of butter and some thyme. Baste as you go, cooking for 5 to 10 minutes until golden brown all over. The longer you cook it for, the more well done it will be.

Allow the venison to rest before carving. At least 5 minutes, then give it a flash under a grill to heat up again.

Cut the cabbage into strips and wilt down in a pot with a nob of butter and salt and pepper. I like it quite crunchy.

To serve, carve the venison and arrange on a plate. Sprinkle the barley and drape the cabbage over and around the meat. Delicious and simple.

NEIL'S RECIPES: HERRING IN OATMEAL

Great friends of mine get so excited about the arrival of the herring season that they buy as much as they can and eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner - pickled, kippered, soused and grilled! A simple fillet fried in butter and oats is my favourite method. And herring’s health benefits are not to be scoffed at. As a nation we should champion these old, but now scarce, treats when in season.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

4 fillets of fresh herring

1 large handful of medium oats (I use porridge oats)

100g butter, melted

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper

A squirt of cold-pressed rapeseed oil

Knob of butter

A handful of salad leaves (I like watercress), to serve

1 lemon, to serve

METHOD

On the hob, heat a pan to a moderate temperature and add the rapeseed oil and a knob of butter.

Dip the herring fillets in the melted butter, then in the oats.

Place the fillets into the hot pan skin-side down and cook for a few minutes on both sides until golden. Season with a little salt, pepper and lemon juice as you cook.

To serve, simply plate the fish with some leaves and a wedge of lemon.