This guy has been an inspiration to a lot of chefs my age. He was so cool, different, bad (in a good way), a bit naughty, did things differently, had balls to go against the grain and cooked superb food. Marco Pierre White was on a roll when he produced this book, Wild Food from Land and Sea. It will be in most chefs’ libraries, and my copy is well-thumbed. 

His restaurants were the place to be in the late 80s and 90s. I fondly remember going on a date with the current Mrs Chef to The Criterion at Piccadilly Circus and seeing him sat on a nearby table, eating and speaking on the phone. This giant of a man could not have been more gentlemanly when I nervously approached asking for his autograph on the menu. It was a moment I shall never forget. I bumped into him a few more times afterwards at his other place, The Restaurant, and I always asked for his autograph on the menu. 

He had so many great chefs working for him, among them: Stephen Terry, Gordon Ramsay and Martin Wishart. He had a great team, allowing him to be everywhere. The ‘enfant terrible’, as he was known in the press, cooked very well, after his training with Roux, Blanc, Koffman and Nico. He knew at a young age how good he was. 

This book illustrates his simple yet complex approach to food. He always stays close to the classics and never strays too far away from combinations that work. That’s his secret I think. He does classic cookery with a modern touch, presented simply, but full of flavour. The recipes here are not too scary and the images are just wonderful. His soufflé is perfect, and the recipe for rabbit with asparagus and leeks is like something from a 1970s French cookbook, but made cool. And you can’t get anything simpler than his escalope of salmon à l’estragon: simply a piece of fish with a tarragon sauce, yet a very tricky dish to get right. 

This book came after White Heat, his first publication. It’s a bit like a band’s second album, but he succeeded in creating another masterpiece. I think his food is still very relevant today. 30 years on, and I still absolutely love his books. He’s a true craftsman and a skilled professional. I will talk about more of his books in the future, I’m sure.